Meet Japan.
It was on my bucket list to visit the Bamboo Forest. It was his #1 country to visit first in Asia. And since I was already in the area for six weeks prior, a last minute trip to Japan was born!
Japan is one of those places where the old meets new seamlessly. With a surplus of things to do and a low desire to plan for once, ten days in Japan became based around our stomachs with some traditional & new sights and experiences along the way. So fair warning - this post is foodie focused and visually too because yes, I’m guilty of “eating with my eyes.”
But first, let’s talk about the toilets.
For all my ladies out there, who wouldn’t want a nice warm seat every time you sit down to do your business? This was the first thing I noticed upon landing in Japan. At an airport bathroom. Warm seat, all the bidet etc buttons and all, and the game of figuring out how to flush the toilets. Yes I’m sold, I’m installing at least one of these in my future home.
Now on to the mouthwatering grub! One of my goals this trip was to have matcha every day. And boy did I...
Matcha Rankings
(Pictured below from left to right)
#1: Nanaya Aoyama Matcha Gelato (Shibuya) - As you can tell from this first photo, Nanaya has seven choices depending on the grade/strength of matcha you prefer. That plus the numerous other selections made this an easy winner. If it was closer to station, this would’ve been a hands down same trip repeat.
#2: Saryo Tsujiri, Suigyoku Parfait (Daimaru, Tokyo Station) - This place made me guilty of being happy I didn’t have to share a bite (Chris was back at the hotel recovering from a fever). So post Shinkansen tickets retrieval, I savored every layer within this lovely combination! Plus it’s conveniently located in the Daimaru Tokyo Store 10F just a short walk from Tokyo station.
#3: Cremia with a dusting of matcha powder (Shibuya + multiple locations) - You’ll find Cremia throughout Japan (wish it was easier to find but we stumbled upon one at the Excelsior Cafe near Mega Don Quijote). 25% fresh cream from Hokkaido, 12.5% high milk fat content (but before we could translate what the percentages meant in English, Chris dubbed it 100% delicious! Truth.)
#4: Koicha & Usucha at Ippodo Tearoom (Kyoto) - Being a matcha and all around tea fan, I had to stop into the main Ippodo store in Kyoto. While we couldn’t snag seats at the bar, they made both the koicha (thick, rich texture matcha) and usucha (regular, light texture matcha) right at our table (pictured below are our usuchas post koicha consumption).
#5: Tsujiri Tea House, Gion Parfait & Green Tea Soda (Kyoto & Ginza) - Because I loved the first parfait so much, this second one happened to be on the way to the Yasaka Shrine so it was an obvious stopover. The parfait was also lovely though the first one has an up on this one. Plus we tried the green tea soda which featured matcha ice balls and ice cream.
#6: World's Second Best Freshly Baked Melonpan Ice Cream (Shibuya & Osaka) - There’s something about this second best marketing that caught my attention. I usually like to savor my meals but the warm/crispy/soft melonpan called for a quicker eat and some ice cream on the face.
#7: Wendy’s First Kitchen Matcha Float (Multiple Locations) - This was actually the first matcha of the trip and I was quite impressed. For what’s known as a fast food place back home I had low expectations but it was just the right amount of sweetness and creaminess.
#8: Matcha Draft Beer at Ichiran Ramen (Multiple Locations) - A little odd yet still tasty, I like to think that the matcha health benefits raised the healthy factor to the beer consumption ;)
Honorable Mention: EKI na CAFE Matcha Latte (Convenience Stores, not pictured) - Mostly tried this for the Shinkansen ride and because “Eki” is my nickname. A little on the sweeter end but still enjoyable for a quick on-the-go latte!
Noteworthy Non-Matcha Eats
TokyoGinza Steak (Ginza) - alright, the hype is real and I won’t be able to look at steak the same again. 7 amazing courses. Excellent service. Within your time slot, all you can eat A5 wagyu shimohuri (melt in your mouth) and akami teppan steak (which I found to be fancy nostalgia from childhood bbqs). “Only” 9,800 yen excluding tax and limited seating so be sure to make a reservation.
(Pictured below from left to right)
Menyamusashi Iwatora (Akihibara) - Looking for ramen fuel before/after some arcade playing? This place is known for their Tsukemen style Ramen.
Ramen Street (Tokyo Station) - There is no shortage of eateries in Tokyo station and neither is there a shortage of ramen, a corridor of which is full of restaurants (first floor down from street level in the same corridor as Character Street). This was our first ramen vending machine and to save you some time (and having the waitress come out to help you), insert the exact amount of money or more, click on your selections, then once you press the finish button your tickets and any change will print out from there.
Zaku Zaku Soft Serve (Harajuku) - It’s hard to walk by a place with soft serve all over their window and not think twice. This place is known for their crispy cream puffs but the window already won me over to have their soft serve.
SweetXO Good Grief Cotton Candy (Harajuku) - At first I thought this was a bit excessive (and expensive for what it is) but there’s something light and delicious about their cotton candy that it’s not like the ones you’ll find at a fair.
Bills (Omotesando & additional locations) - First tried their ricotta hotcakes in Sydney and they are truly amazing (fact: I’m not usually a hotcakes kinda gal). Though it’s not from Japan, it’s a brunch spot that won’t disappoint.
Kyoto(Pictured below from left to right)
Yudofu Sagano (Arashiyama) - this set multi-course vegetarian meal with tofu hot pot and tempura was one of my favorite meals on the trip. Even if you’re not a huge fan of tofu (I wasn’t until then), the excellent quality, service, and ambience were an amazing experience. Go Japanese style and you’ll find yourself with a view of the beautiful garden below.
Goma Fukudo Nishikishijo Black Sesame Soft Ice Cream (Nishiki Market) - I’m not the first to reach for black sesame so the fact that this is on the list means it really is that good. A sample of their warm onion soup was a plus too!
Konnamonja Soymilk Doughnuts (Nishiki Market) - They have a few flavors to choose from and we opted for the brown sugar and original. A light and tasty snack for breakfast or hangry prevention for the day ahead.
Musashi Sushi - Make your own green tea. Selections with wasabi, without wasabi, or select special rolls. No fusses and solid sushi belt restaurant.
Osaka (specifically in the Dotonbori Area)(Pictured below from left to right)
Ichiran Ramen (multiple 24 hour locations throughout Japan but we opted for the one in Osaka - no line for the one within the street vs. along the river!) - Specializing in tonkotsu ramen that they even sell boxed versions to take home (tip: they’re slightly cheaper at Don Quijote).
Vanilla “Ice Cream Sandwich” & Taiyaki - Most people are usually attracted to the taiyaki (fish shaped pastry) - the one we tried with sweet potato was certainly delicious - but the side option of a vanilla “ice cream sandwich” was something else. It was more vanilla frosty/Icee style, and it was amazing. Directions: take a right outside of the Exit Two stairs in Nippombashi station.
Takoyaki - Originating in Osaka, these octopus balls are a great beginner’s stab at having octopus. Plus the variations and toppings mask the texture of the octopus which is usually too tough for me.
Okonomiyaki - A savory pancake with a variety of ingredients (yes that egg on top was a worthy add).
Charcoal Grilled Crab - A bit pricey for what it is but never had grilled crab and I love crab!
NaritaIf you find yourself on a quick layover and need to stay near the airport, do yourself a favor and get out for even a few hours. Make your way over to Omotesando Street which has a number of shops and eateries making it feel like you’ve gone back in time to an ancient town, and it also leads to Naritasan Shinshoji Temple. Be sure to treat yourself to one of Narita’s specialities too, grilled unagi. The line was pretty long at Kawatoyo Honten so after catching them slice up the eel, I made my way into the restaurant to the left of them instead (also delicious).
And let’s not forget the convenience stores. I’ll never be able to look at a 7-11 the same way again (though Lawson’s was our favorite especially with their Natural Lawson branch). Behold, after nightly visits, our “Haul of Fame” (from the top and clockwise, missing Red Chicken from Lawson’s):
Onigiri - loved the salmon, tuna, and seaweed ones
Milk tea with boba
A shaved ice with condensed milk and fruit
Michelin Japanese Soba Noodles
Lotte chocolate pie (like mini crispy croissants)
Meiji yogurt
Fruit yogurt smoothie - tried kiwi, peach, and strawberry
Yogurt with muesli
Fruit mix smoothie
Sights, Shops & Experiences Along the Way
TokyoDon Quijote & Tax Free Shopping - Popular grocery store especially for things to bring back home including that boxed Ichiran ramen. But don’t pull a me the first few days and forget to bring your passport around where you go. Many stores will offer tax free shopping to tourists though the caveat is you’ll need to hand carry them with you for customs (at least for us, they only asked for the receipts though they may sometimes ask to see the actual products too).
Shibuya & Shinjuku areas - Surplus of eateries, shops, and boutiques.
Shibuya Crossing - To see what is rumored to be the busiest intersection in the world from above, stay on the second floor of Shibuya Station before taking the Hachiko Gate (Exit 1). Once you exit, you’ll find the statue of Hachiko the dog prior to the crossing. You can also get overhead views from the Starbucks across the station or at Magnet by Shibuya 109.
Golden Gai in Shinjuku - Six alleys packed with tiny, unique, and buzzing bars.
Harajuku area - Nestled between Shibuya and Shinjuku on the Yamanote Line, this area is an epitome of Japanese teenage fashion and cosplay culture. You’ll find Takeshita Dori as the focal point of teenage culture and just south of there Omotesando, Tokyo’s Champs-Élysées.
Ginza area - Conveniently located a stop from Tokyo station, this is a great starting or ending point when you need to be close to the airport. Home to upscale shopping/dining and they open up the central Chuo Dori Street like 5th Avenue in New York on weekend afternoons.
Dover Street Market Ginza - If you’re into designer labels both well known and up and coming, they’ve got multiple levels of boutique shopping plus a mini rooftop garden.
Sega Arcade in Akihabara - They aren’t kidding with the arcades here. Each floor has a focus whether it’s claw games, music based or VR, there were a couple of these just a few blocks from each other.
Super Potato in Akihabara - For some video game nostalgia, this store seemed to have a little bit of everything that you could purchase or test out and play, plus a few vintage games upstairs to give a go (open to smoking).
teamLabs Borderless - Digital art installations with no boundaries, moving in and out of rooms, and communicating and intermingling with other works.
Tokyo Station - A red brick building housing one of Japan’s busiest railway stations and a terminal for a number of shinkansen lines. Shopping and dining abound both in and around the station. Be sure to use the underground walkways to get to the various sections of the station (a time saver Google failed to mention during our first trip there) and keep in mind that this is a JR Station vs. Marunouchi Station for the Tokyo Metro.
Tokyo Tower - An Eiffel Tower-like communications and observation tower conveniently located near our first spot in Tokyo, Hotel The Celestine Tokyo Shiba.
Tokyu Hands - A department store with a little bit of everything from souvenirs to lifestyle products to home and beauty goods. These can be a bit massive so I enjoyed the one connected to Tokyo Station.
A few other favorite stores worth checking out include UNIQLO, MUJI, and J!NS.
KyotoBamboo Forest - A beautiful sight of bamboo stalks standing high into the sky even when the pathways are filled with tourists. If you find yourself lucky with little to no crowd, you may catch one of the country’s voted “100 Soundscapes of Japan” with the wind passing through the bamboo, leaves rustling, and the bamboo bending, creaking, and knocking together. We also caught some early blooming cherry blossoms around here and already want to come back during peak bloom!
Ippodo KABOKU Tearoom - The main store is located in Kyoto and for nearly three centuries, the company has been providing the highest quality of Japanese green tea. This is an excellent place to learn first hand the techniques of brewing different types of green tea.
Nishiki Market - Five blocks of shops and restaurants known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen.”
Yasaka Shrine - One of the most famous shrines in Kyoto whose lanterns are beautifully lit in the evening.
Geishas - If you’re hoping to run into a geisha, the most likely place is Hanami-koji-dori in Gion at the Shijo-dori end of Pontocho around dusk.
OsakaDotonbori area - With just a day in Osaka, we looked no further than this food mecca with huge signs, neon lights, and surrounding shopping.
Getting Around
There is no shortage of transportation options (including more than one railway company) and as we didn’t do too much planning prior, it took a little bit of trial and error to finally get it right. We ended up going with:
Narita Express - 4,000 yen for a roundtrip ticket from the airport and Tokyo Station (also serves Shinagawa, Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, and Yokohama Stations). Since it’s part of the JR Line, we were able to connect to another line closer to our hotel from Tokyo Station on the same ticket.
Tokyo Metro & Toei Subway - These lines provide the most stops throughout Tokyo. As a tourist, you’re able to get the best deal on 24-hour, 48-hour, or 72-hour tickets when you purchase these tickets with your passport at the airport or Tokyo Metro Pass Offices within certain stations. If you’re not near any of these locations, you can either buy a one way ticket to that station or a similar ticket at a machine for a slightly higher price.
JR Line - We bought a few one off tickets for this line to get to certain areas in the city (like teamLabs Borderless) though if you plan ahead, you can get the popular Japan Rail Pass that allows travel on all JR trains and buses with a few exceptions. These are available for 7, 14, or 21 days and must be purchased prior to arrival in Japan. This looks to be a great option if you find yourself exploring beyond the Tokyo region.
Shinkansen to/from Kyoto package with Subway & Bus Pass - 21,000 yen for a roundtrip non-reserved seat on the Shinkansen and a 1-Day Subway & Bus Pass (e-voucher to be exchanged for tickets at the train and bus stations - JR Tokai Tours was super helpful and the most organized). The non-reserved cars are 1 - 3 and you’ll want to sit on the right side of the train going to Kyoto for a chance to see Mt. Fuji on a non-cloudy day. Also best to avoid rush hour times for a better chance at snagging the seat you want. The Shinkansen is a fast and easy way to reach other parts of Japan and the stations are filled with bento box options and other meals to bring onboard. There isn’t much luggage storage except for above head space for carry ons and we kept our one check in luggage at our feet.
Getting to Arashiyama in Kyoto (Bamboo Forest, Yudofu Sagano) - We ended up traveling to and from here on two different railways. From Kyoto Station, we took the JR Sagano/San-in Line to Sage-Arashiyama Station which is a 10 minute walk from the Bamboo Forest. To head back to Kyoto since we were near Togetsukyo Bridge, we took the Hankyu Arashiyama Line from Arashiyama Station back to Kawaramachi Station to finish off the day in Downtown Kyoto.
Getting to Dotonbori in Osaka - It was about an hour subway ride taking the Hankyu-Kyoto Line from Kawaramachi Station in Downtown Kyoto onto the Hankyu-Senri Line and Sakaisjui Line for Nippombashi Station. The Hankyu Line has local, semi express, and limited express trains. We took the semi-express train on the way there which was quick and provided free wifi. We took a limited express heading back to Kyoto which was even faster with free wifi and women only cars (very nice touch Japan).
Stay ($)
Hotel The Celestine Tokyo Shiba - Spacious rooms and good price given Tokyo standards plus solid amenities including a handy smartphone for getting around the city and PJs for those light travelers out there. A great choice for nearby subway stations, a bit more space at a lower price point, and located midway between Tokyo Station and the Shibuya/Shinjuku areas though not as many happenings right outside your door (which could be a plus or minus depending on the type of traveler you are).
HOTEL UNIZO Ginza-nanachome - Smaller rooms though centrally located near Ginza station (one stop away from Tokyo Station) and a variety of shopping and eateries just steps away.
Matsubaya Ryokan - For a budget friendly traditional Japanese stay, look no further than this cozy ryokan nestled between Downtown Kyoto and Kyoto Station Area.
Narita View - Just the right amount of comfort and convenience for a layover in Narita. Easy and free to reach via the shuttle system from the airport and a hotel bus takes you to JR Narita Station and AEON Mall. They also have an onsen which I wish I had given a try during my overnight.
Tips
Day Planning - As with any large city, planning days by areas (e.g. west vs. east side) will save you from going back and forth and instead spend more time experiencing your surroundings.
Transportation Research - Look into what modes of transportation will work best for your time frame and budget. There’s no shortage of options in Tokyo and while it’s definitely doable to show up and figure it out (which is what happened on our first trip), it’s definitely a time and stress saver to figure it out a little more before being onsite.
Packing - If you’re someone who enjoys shopping and bringing back local delicacies, there’s a whole lot of both in Japan so it’ll be helpful to pack light and bring an emptier suitcase. Keep in mind that you’ll likely be taking a lot of trains too which means hauling your luggage with you everywhere you go. They do have lockers available at the stations so if you want to pay to hold some of your luggage while you’re off exploring farther parts of the country that’s definitely an option.
And one theme that kept popping up is that you’ll most likely really love the things you already love and don’t be put off by the things you think you might not like. You may surprise yourself. We loved the people, culture, and food of Japan and are already itching to head back!
Recommendations for Future?
Ten days in Japan was a solid amount of time for our first trip there though with the slow mornings and minimal planning, we had to save some adventures on our list for next time. A few of those include:
TokyoBar hopping in Golden Gai
Check out an izakaya in Shinjuku’s Omoide Yokocho (“Piss Alley”)
Partake in an evening of karaoke
Get an international driver’s license before leaving the states to sign up for MariCAR
Wander the stalls of the Tsukiji Outer Market
Visit the Sensoji Temple in Asakusa
Have a crepe at Takeshita Dori
Stroll through the Imperial Palace East Gardens
KyotoStep into more traditional Japan by visiting:
Fushimi Inari Taisha (Shinto shrine with famed red gates)
Kinkaku-ji (serene gold-colored temple) in north Kyoto
Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion)
Ryoanji Temple (Zen temple with rock garden)
Eat omurice at kichikichi
Throughout JapanBask in peak cherry blossom season and the autumn foliage
Check out an onsen
Participate in a traditional tea ceremony
Learn calligraphy
Visit Hokkaido lavender fields and have all kinds of soft serve
Spend some time in Hakone and Nikko
Any musts on your list? Would love to hear about them!
Photos (more favorite snapshots can be found here)Canon SL1, iPhone 7 Plus